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Shenyang has bounced back from the s, when it was at the epicenter of China's manufacturing sector layoffs and the closure of state-owned enterprises. The northeast of China used to be called Manchuria. A French priest who traveled through the region in the s wrote: Manchuria must be one of the bleakest places on earth, hot and dusty in summer and freezing in the long winter months.
Although perhaps not quite as blood-soaked as some other places—Ukraine, say, or Poland—Manchuria has had more than its share of violence. On the southern tip lies Port Arthur, once a Russian town. Japanese troops massacred thousands of Chinese civilians there during the Sino-Japanese War in A vicious modern war—with trenches, bombs, machine guns—between Russia and Japan left about , men dead in When the Japanese clashed for three months with the Soviet Red Army on the Mongolian border in , roughly 30, men were killed or maimed, most of them Japanese the Soviets had tanks.
Much of Manchuria is flat and rural, but heavy industry has polluted the skies for nearly a hundred years. The Japanese used Chinese slave labor to exploit vast strip mines of coal from the early twentieth century till the end of World War II; they also built aircraft and automobile factories and steel plants.
Poppies were cultivated before the war to supply the opium trade in China monopolized by the Japanese. In Harbin, one of the main cities on the South Manchurian Railway line, White Russian thugs preyed on a large Jewish community 30, at its peak , and Japanese Imperial Army doctors performed gruesome experiments with deadly viruses on mostly Chinese prisoners. After the Japanese defeat in , the Red Army looted as much as it could from what the Japanese left behind.
It even carted off to Russia the wooden ties from the tracks of the Manchurian railway. The most famous Maoist hero, known for his relentless self-sacrifice for the Revolution, was a fellow named Comrade Lei Feng, who died after being struck by a falling telephone pole at the age of twenty-one.